Friday

Surfed for a long time yesterday. I'm beat and even now, a day later, a little sore. The conditions were good with some really big waves. Today we're going to a break called Avellanas which is about 30 minutes driving time from the camp. It's supposed to be a good wave breaking at about 3 - 5 feet. The front office waved me over to arrange bus transportation for tommorow to the airport. It was like a cold splash of reality. Attached is sunset seen from the camp.